【英语财经】亚洲男士护肤品市场方兴未艾 In Asia, Men’s Skin Care Takes Off

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2014-5-29 21:52

小艾摘要: The new face of Asia may be Shum Pak-hin's. Every morning, Mr. Shum puts on a gel mask and then applies a day cream, a sunblock and sometimes a bit of eyeliner. At night, the 21-year-old Hong Kong nat ...
In Asia, Men's Skin Care Takes Off
The new face of Asia may be Shum Pak-hin's.

Every morning, Mr. Shum puts on a gel mask and then applies a day cream, a sunblock and sometimes a bit of eyeliner. At night, the 21-year-old Hong Kong native uses eye make-up remover, cleanses his skin and then applies an anti-age serum.
The routine isn't cheap: He spends about 3,000 Hong Kong dollars (US$387) a month on skin care and cosmetics. His biggest splurge: a HK$2,000 whitening cream by La Prairie.

'My skin ages very easily, much more than others,' says Mr. Shum. 'This isn't just for girls. Boys want to feel good, too.'

Mr. Shum and a growing number of men like him are making Asia one of the fastest growing markets for men's skin care. The region accounts for US$2.1 billion, or 64%, of the $3.3 billion spent globally in 2013 on such items as male skin creams, lotions and whiteners, according to data compiled in April by Euromonitor, a market-research firm.

That amount dwarfs the $286.4 million spent by North American men and the $682.9 million used by Western European males on the same products. China, including Hong Kong, is the largest market for men's skin care, at $974.8 million, an amount that's forecast to grow to $1.2 billion this year. In second place is South Korea, which spent $635 million.

'This is where the market's development is happening. It's very concentrated in Asia,' says Nicole Tyrimou, a beauty analyst for Euromonitor in London.

Men are still far from rivaling women--the women's skin-care market is valued at more than 30 times the men's at $107.6 billion. But men's skin-care products are growing at a much faster pace, 9.4% compared with 4.8% for women's skin care.

And as men have only recently considered buying items like serums and deep-cleansing moisturizing soap, beauty companies see much more potential for expansion among males, compared with the mature women's skin-care market.

The most enthusiastic adoption, by far, is in South Korea, where male celebrities, like singer and actor Rain, have long endorsed skin care in billboards and television ads, paving the way for broader acceptance. South Korean men spent US$25.30 per capita on skin care in 2013--more than three times second-place Denmark. Asian countries account for five of the top 10 countries in per capita spending.

'There is a wider idea of skin care being effeminate in many countries, but in Korea this doesn't seem to be the case,' says Simon Duffy, co-founder of the U.K. brand Bulldog, which started selling its line in Korean stores last year.

Some retail experts attribute Asian men's relative affinity for skin care to simply following the lead of the women around them. 'If your mother has a nine-step skin routine, which happens a lot in Korea, you're going to do five,' says Ms. Tyrimou.

Like Asian women, Asian men are interested in whitening creams to lighten their skin's color.

Alexis Perakis-Velat, vice president for Asia Pacific at L'Oréal SA, believes climate is a large factor in the growing male beauty trend because much of China and Korea has cold, dry winters and hot, humid summers. 'When you live in central China in winter, you're happy to put a good hydrating cream on your skin,' says Mr. Perakis-Valat. The executive added the men's beauty market in China is growing two to three times faster than the overall global beauty market for men.

Estée Lauder Co. is increasingly developing products for its male-targeted Lab Series first in Asia, which accounts for more than 60% of the line's business and is growing at a rate of 10% to 12%, compared with a world-wide average of 8% to 9%. The company developed its BB cream, or 'blemish balm,' specifically for the Korean market, and it's now on sale in the U.S. and Europe, says Stephane de la Faverie, senior vice president at Estée Lauder.

Some brands say more work still needs to be done to make men's skin care seem less feminine--especially at the department stores and drugstores where it's generally sold.

'The main obstacle is that department stores are not really a masculine environment,' says Laurent Lautier, president of Asia Pacific at Clarins.

But back in Hong Kong, Mr. Shum, who also writes a beauty blog, says he doesn't view skin care as a women's preserve. He says he became interested in men's skin care at the age of 17 after watching a male friend demonstrate his own routine.

'Before our generation, men hated skin care and didn't want to do it,' he says. 'But the culture is different now.'

Getty Images韩国人气男星Rain是男性护肤品的热衷者之一。
亚洲男士的新风貌或许体现在沈柏轩(音)这样的男士身上。

每天早上沈柏轩都要给自己敷用啫喱面膜,之后再使用日霜和防晒霜,有时还划点眼线。夜晚来临时,这位21岁的香港年轻人则使用眼部卸妆液卸妆,清洁皮肤,然后使用抗衰老精华液。

这一套程序花费并不低。每个月沈柏轩花在皮肤护理和化妆上的钱大约为3,000港元(合387美元),其护肤用品中最奢侈的当数2,000港元一只的莱珀妮(La Prairie)美白霜。

沈柏轩说,自己的皮肤比其他人容易老化得多。称,这不仅仅是女生才有的问题,男生也想要皮肤好一点。

越来越多沈柏轩这样的男人的出现,使得亚洲成为男士护肤品增长最快的市场之一。根据市场研究机构Euromonitor 4月份搜集的数据显示,2013年全球男士面霜、润肤露以及美白霜等产品的消费达33亿美元,其中亚洲市场占64%,为21亿美元。

亚洲市场的上述消费金额超过了北美男士的消费金额2.864亿美元,也超过了西欧男士在这类商品上的消费金额6.829亿美元。包括香港在内的中国地区是男士护肤品最大的市场,规模为9.748亿美元,预计今年这一数字将达到12亿美元。规模其次的是韩国,韩国男士的消费金额为6.35亿美元。

Euromonitor驻伦敦的美容分析师Nicole Tyrimou表示,这就是市场的发展状况,亚洲市场非常集中。

不过,男性护肤品市场仍远远不能与女性相提并论,后者的规模达到1,076亿美元,是前者的30多倍。但男性护肤产品市场的增长速度达到9.4%,远超女性的4.8%。

并且,由于男性只是最近才开始考虑买精华露、深层清洁滋润皂等产品,相比起已经成熟的女性护肤品市场,化妆品公司认为在男性护肤品市场进行拓展的潜力要大得多。

到目前为止,最热情接受男性护肤品概念的是韩国,当地男性名人(例如歌手兼演员Rain)的护肤宣传形象长期出现在户外广告、电视广告上,为公众接受这一概念扫清了道路。韩国男性2013年在护肤上的人均支出为25.30美元,较排名第二的丹麦高出两倍多。人均支出最高的前十名国家中,亚洲占了半壁江山。

英国品牌Bulldog去年在韩国门店开始上架销售。该品牌联合创始人达菲(Simon Duffy)说,在许多国家,普遍都有一种“男人护肤很娘娘腔”的看法,但韩国人并不这么看。

一些零售专家将亚洲男性相对较高的护肤热情归因于受到了身边女性的引导。Tyrimou说,假设你的母亲每天护肤步骤多达九步——这在韩国很常见,那么你可能就会花五步护肤。

和亚洲女性一样,亚洲男性也喜欢美白面霜,追求提亮肤色。

法国欧莱雅公司(L'oreal)亚太区副总裁贝瀚青(Alexis Perakis-Velat)认为,气候是男子美容趋势日趋上升的一大因素,因为中国和韩国多数地方冬季寒冷干燥而夏季炎热潮湿。他表示,生活在中国中部地区的人们在冬天愿意给皮肤抹上一款好的保湿霜。他补充说,中国的男子美容市场比全球男子美容市场的增长速度快一到两倍。

雅诗兰黛公司(Estee Lauder Co.)正首先在亚洲开发更多的Lab Series产品,亚洲市场占这个男子护肤品牌业务的60%以上,并以10%-12%的速度增长,而在全球市场的平均增长率为8%-9%。雅诗兰黛高级副总裁Stephane de la Faverie称,公司专门针对韩国市场开发了BB霜(一种遮瑕霜),目前这款产品也在美国和欧洲销售。

一些品牌表示,要使男人护肤不那么女性化仍有很多工作要做,特别是在护肤品通常出售的百货商店和药店。

娇韵诗(Clarins)亚太区总裁劳蒂尔(Laurent Lautier)称,主要障碍是,百货商店并不具备真正的男性化环境。

不过回到香港,也在写一个美容博客的沈柏轩说,他认为护肤不是女性的专利。他表示,他在17岁时看到一位男性朋友展示他自己的护肤程序之后,就开始对男性护肤产生了兴趣。

他说,在他们这一代人之前,男性讨厌护肤并且不想这么做。但他表示,如今的文化已不相同。

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