【英语中国】香港巴士迷的疯狂追车之旅 Hong Kong Fans Stalk Streets For Unlikely Prey

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2014-1-10 00:24

小艾摘要: Hong Kong's paparazzi stalk the city's tycoons, movie actors and pop singers. Philip Chan is after something bigger. On a sunny day in the Kowloon City neighborhood, he watches his 14-foot-tall prey r ...
Hong Kong Fans Stalk Streets For Unlikely Prey
Hong Kong's paparazzi stalk the city's tycoons, movie actors and pop singers. Philip Chan is after something bigger.

On a sunny day in the Kowloon City neighborhood, he watches his 14-foot-tall prey round a corner, far more nimbly than its size would suggest. Checking traffic, he steps off the curb and clicks -- but the glare off the side is too bright and the shot is ruined.

The 27-year-old Mr. Chan gets back into position and waits. He knows the schedule: another double-decker bus should be along shortly.

'Buses are like different movie stars,' he says, flipping through a seemingly identical montage of bus photos on his digital camera. 'Everyone has their favorite.'

Mr. Chan, an accountant, is one of Hong Kong's thousands of bus fans, ranging from young students to retirees, who are enthralled by the city's some 6,000 buses. They linger by bus depots and lurk near highway ramps, angling for the best shots. They form fan clubs, eagerly swap the latest gossip about changes in bus models and film their own rides, which they share online with anyone who wants to follow along (spoiler alert: they aren't always scintillating).

In a city where owning a car can be prohibitively expensive, fans say buses are a linchpin in Hong Kong's identity, one of the first forms of mass transport established after an era of rickshaws and carriages. The city still boasts double-decker vehicles -- a legacy of its British colonial past -- which are trimmed in bright colors and often dressed up as rolling billboards touting everything from jewelry to tutoring services.

Too wide to pass side-by-side on the city's narrowest roads, the buses careen around cliff-top streets eliciting gasps from tourists, who grab the upper deck front seats for the most dramatic views. There are enough bus fans to support more than half-a-dozen shops selling miniature bus models (in a city of seven million), though others have taken the more extreme step of buying retired buses and storing them in suburban lots.

'I get a very special feeling when riding a bus,' says Dennis Law, 35, a photographer and local bus aficionado. 'It's a kind of freedom, a leisure feeling.'

His favorite is a new model of the red and yellow Enviro500 MMC, built by U.K. bus builder Alexander Dennis Limited, launched last year.

'It's quite luxurious,' says Mr. Law. 'It feels like you're in a race car.'

Others are puzzled by bus groupies, given that Hong Kong boasts what is often ranked among the world's best subway systems. 'I think they're crazy. The bus is very slow. I hate it,' says homemaker Yu Kaman, 27.

When the city's last non-air-conditioned bus was retired in 2012, the bus fans, who call them 'hot dogs,' gathered for the final ride, waving farewell signs and popping flashes. Few others lamented the end of the sticky commutes in the city's subtropical climate.

While bus fans express their love of a good ride in different ways, for many, the real purpose is to show off their artwork -- thousands of pictures of buses, head on, turning, in profile and occasionally from above. The problem is there are a limited number of models roaming the city's streets and only so many ways to shoot a bus.

To make their portraits stand out, the bus fans plan their shots with the precision of wildlife photographers shooting a lion hunt. They seek out the ideal location and wait for the light to be just right, occasionally bolting into traffic to capture the perfect moment.

One of Mr. Law's favorite spots is in front of the Hong Kong Space Museum in Kowloon, just steps from Victoria Harbour, because he likes the way buses turn in front of the domed building.

To avoid deep shadows, he shoots from 8 a.m. to 10 a.m. and from noon to 2 p.m. In the late afternoon, he will cross the harbor to Victoria Park to capture westbound buses.

Some bus photographers try to capture striking backdrops behind buses -- the city's hallmark mix of decrepit high-rises and neon signs, for example. Others, like Mr. Chan, focus on the ever-changing advertisements plastered on the buses.

The subject matter, though, can be limited. 'There are too many jewelry ads,' says Mr. Chan.

Just before Halloween, a friend excitedly text-messaged Mr. Chan saying that he had spotted a bus in a gritty working-class neighborhood with an ad featuring a pair of M&M characters running uphill toward a haunted house.
Mr. Chan set off and snapped the bus, a particularly coveted target, he says, because it bore a wraparound version of that ad, a rarity in town. 'It would be better if there was more sunshine out -- it would make it even prettier -- but the photo is still OK,' he says

The perfect bus portrait, according to Mr. Law, has the subject positioned at a 45-degree angle showing the full length of the vehicle as well as its front. But like any artist, he says, rules are made to be broken. 'While the 45-degree rule normally applies, I myself look for variations,' he says. In one photograph that he especially prizes, he was able to capture a bus with a Nikon ad featuring pop star Joey Yung juxtaposed against a billboard at a bus stop featuring the same advertisement.

The photographers can put bus drivers in an awkward position, especially regarding issues of safety, as fans dart into the street to get their shot. Drivers don't want to get snapped with their eyes off the road. 'I try not to look at the camera though, it might look a bit weird,' said Gary Leung, a driver for Kowloon Motor Bus, the city's largest bus company.

Mr. Leung, 27, has sympathy for the bus fans -- after all, he's one himself, having recently quit his job at a Big Four accounting firm to fulfill his dream of sitting behind the wheel. At a bright, outdoor bus terminal, Mr. Leung said he is pleased with his new career. 'Of course the salary cannot compare,' he says. 'But I love it. Every day feels like being on holiday.'

视频:香港双层巴士之旅
香港的双层巴士有一批忠实的粉丝。巴士之旅魅力何在?巴士爱好者Dennis Law带着《华尔街日报》记者Te-Ping Chen体验了他最喜爱的一些巴士线路。视频封面图片来自Philip Chan。
香港狗仔队的跟踪对象往往是当地富商名流、电影明星和流行歌手。Philip Chan的跟踪对象则有点“大”。

在某个晴好的日子Chan来到九龙城附近,关注着街角4米多高的跟踪“对象”,虽然体型看起来庞大,但它的移动速度可快得很。注意了一下来往车流,Chan走下马路牙,来到路边迅速摁下快门。但是光线太强,照片糊了!

于是Chan回到蹲点的老地方,继续等待。他清楚时间,另一辆双层巴士应该很快就会驶来。

“巴士就像另一种电影明星,”他在数码相机上一边查看着那些看起来似乎完全相同的巴士照片一边说,“人人都有最爱的一款巴士。”

图片:香港巴士27岁的Chan是一名会计师,也是香港数千巴士迷中的一员。这些巴士爱好者中,老中青都有,他们的共同点就是为香港6,000辆左右的巴士着迷。他们会在巴士总站流连,在公路匝道附近蹲守,就为了拍出最佳的照片。他们还组织了各种俱乐部,交流车型变化的各种小道消息,在网络上与人分享自己所拍的巴士照片。

巴士迷们说,在香港这样一个私家车使用成本高得离谱的城市,巴士已经成为了一个独特的城市标志。巴士是黄包车和马车时代过后香港最早出现的大众交通工具之一,时至今日,香港依然在推广它的使用,一辆辆巴士被刷成靓丽的颜色,车身上常常是从珠宝到补习学校等各类极具视觉冲击力的广告,英国殖民统治时期遗留下来的这道特色已然成为香港一条靓丽的风景线。

由于车身太宽无法在最窄的小路上并行,这些巴士在陡峭的街道上相遇时常常会选择侧倾,引来乘车游客的一片惊呼。乘客往往会抢占上层前排的座位,以便获得最佳的视野。在有着700万人口的香港,巴士迷的人数众多,销售巴士模型的商店就超过六家,更有甚者直接购买“退休”巴士存放在市郊的停车场内。

35岁的摄影师Dennis Law也是一名巴士发烧友。他说,坐巴士给他带来了非常特别的感觉,那是一种自由、闲暇的感觉。

他的最爱是去年推出的一款由英国巴士制造商Alexander Dennis Limited生产、红黄相间的新型Enviro500 MMC巴士。

Law说,这款巴士相当豪华,有坐赛车的感觉。

这群巴士迷的狂热让许多人不解,因为香港有着全球最好的地铁网络。27岁的家庭主妇Yu Kaman说:“我觉得他们太疯狂了。巴士速度那么慢,我一点也不喜欢。”

当2012年香港最后一辆无空调巴士退役时,巴士迷们纷纷前来最后一次乘坐这种被他们称为“热狗”的巴士,挥舞着再见的标语,拍照留念。在身处亚热带的香港,没有空调的巴士简直闷热不堪,因此除了巴士迷外,没人为这一落后车型的淘汰而感到失落。

虽然巴士迷们以另类的方式表达他们对开心旅程的热爱,但对很多人来说,其真正的目的是展示他们的艺术作品──成千上万的巴士照片,有正面、转角、侧面,偶尔还有从上方拍摄的。问题在于,穿行在这座城市大街小巷的车型数量有限,拍摄巴士的方式也只有那么多。

为了让自己拍摄的画面独具一格,巴士迷们以野生动植物摄影师拍摄狮子猎食的缜密来规划自己的拍摄时机。他们搜寻理想的地点,并等待光线最合适的时候,有时还会窜入车流中以捕捉最完美的一刻。

Law最喜欢的地点之一是位于九龙的香港太空馆(Hong Kong Space Museum)前面,离维多利亚港只有几步之遥,因为他喜欢巴士在穹顶的太空馆前面转弯的方式。

为了避免浓重的阴影,他拍摄的时间是上午8点到10点以及中午12点至下午2点。傍晚时他会去海港另一边的维多利亚公园(Victoria Park),拍摄向西行驶的巴士。

一些巴士摄影师试图拍摄巴士后面引人注目的背景──例如香港特有的破旧高楼与霓虹招牌的混合。而像Chan这样的摄影师则将重点放在不断变换的巴士车身广告上。

不过拍摄的主题可能有限。Chan说,珠宝广告太多了。

就在万 节之前,一位朋友兴奋地发消息给Chan,说他在一个劳工阶级社区发现一辆巴士,其车身广告是M&M巧克力豆的拟人形象奔向山顶的一座鬼屋。

Chan出发去拍摄了那辆巴士,他说这辆巴士是特别为人们觊觎的目标,因为其车身全部围绕着那个广告,这是市区很少见的。Chan说,如果阳光更强些就更好了──照片会更漂亮──但拍到的照片还是不错。

Law认为,最完美的巴士照片是让拍摄对象呈45度角,展现整个车身以及车头。但他说,对于艺术家来说,规则就是用来打破的。他说,虽然45度角的规则通常都适用,但我自己会寻求各种变化。在他特别引以为傲的一张照片中,他拍摄的巴士车身为流行歌手容祖儿(Joey Yung)代言的尼康(Nikon)广告,而背景是一个公交车站的广告牌,上面是同一幅广告。

这些摄影师可能让巴士司机面临尴尬境地,尤其是考虑到安全问题,因为巴士迷们会冲到街中拍摄。司机们不希望被拍到自己开小差的样子。香港最大的巴士公司九龙巴士(Kowloon Motor Bus)的司机Gary Leung说,我尽量不去看镜头,那可能会显得有些怪怪的。

27岁的Leung对巴士迷抱以同情──毕竟他自己也是其中一员,他不久前辞去了在“四大”会计师事务所之一的工作,实现自己驾驶巴士的梦想。在一个明亮的户外巴士终点站,Leung说他对自己的新工作很满意。他说,薪水当然不能与以前比,但我热爱这份工作,每天都像是在度假。

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